Ribbing and tension, pt. 2

2/24:  Now updated with pictures!

Last time, I discussed better tension in a 2x2 or more ribbing section.  This post is to tackle those instances where you're only working single stitches, such as 1x1 ribbing, seed or moss stitch, or even 3x1 ribbing.

To briefly summarize my last post:  the transitions between a k-p and p-k use different amounts of yarn.  Changing the stitch mount (via "combination knitting") in various combinations will change the amount of yarn used in that transition:

• "Short" transitions are worked KePe and PwKw;
• "Medium" transitions are worked KwPe, KePw, PwKe, and PeKw;
• "Long" transitions are KwPw and PeKe.

Which length to use will depend on the project, but, generally speaking, with ribbing, a knitter will want to use the short transition symmetrically so that it has the most pull-in at the transitions.  So a 2x2 ribbing section will look best when worked (Kw Ke Pe Pw) across both RS and WS rows.

All caught up?  Awesome.  So let's look at single-stitch transitions.

I hereby define, for purposes of this blog, a "single-stitch transition" as one where a single purl or knit stitch sits between two "panels" (widths can vary from one stitch to more) of the "opposite" stitches.  A 1x1 ribbing, or a 2x1 ribbing... 10x1 ribbing, seed stitch, moss stitch, might all benefit from this discussion.

Cast on some amount of stitches and work an inch or two in 1x1 ribbing.  If you're a tight knitter, it might not be quite so obvious, but looser knitters might find very loose, uneven knit columns.  The times that I am able to work a 1x1 ribbing suitably evenly, my hands ache for days afterwards and the object has very little elasticity.  Not the result we want from ribbing.

KwPw throughout - ick.  I'm not going to bother showing the stretched version.  Take my word for it, it's a hot mess.

If we think about it logically, based on the stitch combinations above, it is impossible to mirror a short transition (which is the ideal), or even a long transition if we wanted, with only one stitch.  KePeKe will give you short then long transitions on either side of the purl.  KwPwKw reverses that:  long then short transitions.

The best we can do to even out the pull-in on both sides of that purl stitch is to work each of them as medium transitions.  Pick whichever one works better for you:  work the purls eastern, or work all the knits eastern, and western for the opposite:  KwPeKw, KePwKe.  If you work on the tips of your needles, you might see even more improvement.

KwPe worked on both sides

KwPe stretched - notice the smiles are fairly even, even if the frowns look a little loose.  So the transitions are where we want them.  Let's make the stitches in each column a little more even now.

The last piece to this particular corner of the puzzle comes in working RS vs. WS.  For me, purling everything eastern and knitting western in ribbing causes the dreaded row-out, where the knits are generally actually larger than the purls.  To make it more consistent, then, I have changed my thinking into less "knit western" vs. "purl eastern", and more into a "column A western" and "column B eastern."  How is this applied when I work it?  On the RS, knits are worked western and purls eastern; on the WS, knits are eastern and purls are western.  So the knit column as I look at the RS is made up of stitches consistently wrapped western and looks much neater.

R1: KwPe
R2: KePw
Looking tons better!

A 3x1 ribbing, with the purl column (as viewed from the RS) worked eastern (so on the WS, the knits are eastern and the purls are western)

Same 3x1 swatch, showing the WS.

Seed stitch is worked similarly to a 1x1 rib.  Purling eastern on the RS pulls the stitches closer than working everything western (KwPeKw), reducing or eliminating the holes that plague many a knitter.   (Hopefully, obviously, you may have a better result with KePwKe on the RS).  I have found that I get satisfactory results regardless of whether I work the WS as KePwKe or KwPeKw.  The key is to make sure that the stitch mount is alternating with each stitch, and being consistent throughout the work.

I haven't had the opportunity to test out my theory on moss stitch, but I would hypothesize that working it like 1x1 ribbing will make it look the best.

Experimenting and swatching are the only way to see if it helps.  Other consideration, such as your tension and evenness in stockinette, and selvedges, still apply.  But hopefully you find the "magic" combination that works best for you.