Thursday, February 12, 2015

Master Knitting, level 1

For Christmas, ~D and the kids got me the TKGA's master knitting level 1 program.  I've been knitting for about 11 or 12 years now.  I've done test knitting and tech editing.  The more intricate the lacework, the happier I am.  I figured I had this in the bag.

For those who don't know about it, the program is notoriously picky - almost no one passes on the first try.  They don't call you a "master" knitter for nothing; you have to earn that title.  I've seen some other contenders suggest that some reviewers will fail you just because they don't think someone should pass on the first try; after all, they didn't.  Others insist that you won't learn anything by passing straight away.  Regardless of the motives, it happens.  And I have to let go the idea that I'll pass in the first try.  I think my biggest gripe is that they don't give you *any* guidance for what they're looking for in your knitting.  They give you a stitch pattern and tell you to look it up.

Since I first learned about the program and some of its requirements a few years ago, I've been accumulating tricks.  Now that I have the packet, I know that some of them won't fly (such as the "improved" ssk - nope!  They want it the traditional way).  Some of them I just don't use (ribbing, for example).

A few general things I've learned as I start working though:

1) my tension is much more even with finer yarn.  The program makes you do it all with worsted weight, but I do very little actual knitting in worsted weight.  I use fingering or laceweight almost exclusively.

2) my Addi Lace interchangeables, while nice, don't really suffice for TKGA purposes.  I'm close to being a Knitter's Pride Platina Cubics convert (but I don't want to buy another interchangeable set).  They have a similar finish to the Addis, but are cubic and have long and amazingly sharp points.  Be careful when you sit on the couch (or pick up your 2 year old with the needles in your purse)!

3) relaxing gives me more even tension. I know some people get better tension when they're knitting bullet-proof sweaters.  But that just hurt my hands and actually made the guttering worse.

4) if the ball band says it's worsted (and I've tried multiple!), I can only get, at minimum 5.5 st per inch.  The 5 st that the program requires is still somewhat elusive.  I have managed to get it close enough that I can block it appropriately.  (Edit to clarify: the program doesn't specifically require 5 sts per inch.  There is a range given, of which 5 is the upper limit.  Because my trouble lies on the side of too many sts per inch (my sts being on the small side) I am arguing with my yarn, hands and needles to achieve the upper limit, so that I am within the appropriate range.  I'm sorry for any confusion I may have caused!)

5) knitting "eastern" or "combination" is more than just making the stitches wrap tighter.  It's about changing the path between stitches.  So, while "make all purls eastern" might help some people with their ribbing, it's not helping me.  More on this later.

6) it's more expensive than Patons, Northampton, or even Cascade 220, but I really like Valley Yarns Amherst.  It's giving me the best results so far.  But, being merino, it doesn't hold up as well to frogging.  Practice on the cheap stuff; work the final on the good stuff.

7) just because you've published a book doesn't mean you can really knit up to master knitting standards.  I find it hard to take someone seriously when their sample swatch looks rather like my 6 year old's first scarf.  The same is true for blogging, I'm sorry to say.  (That said, take anything I say here with a grain of salt!  I'm just cataloging my journey.  What works for me may not work for you).

I've gotten 5 or 6 of the swatches done now.  I'm holding off on blocking everything until I'm closer to submission.  (Another clarification: I did a bunch of pre-swatch swatching, complete with blocking, so I could get a good sense of how the yarn will react to the blocking.  It's necessary to know how many rows will equal a certain length in different stitch patterns after blocking).

I'll start getting into some of the technical stuff when I have a chance.  I do want to share (if anyone ever actually reads this) my thoughts on combination knitting.  Until then, keep knitting!  Have fun doing it!

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